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whats the best way of laying solid wood flooring like Oak on a concrete base?

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The best way I have found is to lay down a layer of asphalt felt and then screw down some 5/8" plywood. I have done this many times. If the floor is up and down put some ashphalt shingles in the low spots before laying plywood. Use Tapcons to screw the floor down.
bob

10 Responses to “whats the best way of laying solid wood flooring like Oak on a concrete base?”

  1. taketwo Says:

    Use good glue
    References :

  2. stevensontj Says:

    1. Take off the skirting boards.
    2. Clean the floor and get rid of any lumps.
    3. Cover the floor in a felt liner to add a cushion / heat barrier
    4. Lay the floor with a 1cm spacer all the way round for expansion.
    5. remove spacers.
    6. replace skirting.

    When I did mine I completely screwed it up but not following this simple plan. Doh!
    References :

  3. Nascarguy Says:

    You will need to use an under lament. This will prevent moisture from warping the wood, or causing the wood to swell. You will need to leave a space of approximately a half an inch around the base of floor and walls, you can cover that with a nice wall base board. Good luck.
    References :

  4. chrisbell3 Says:

    Follow all the good advice given on here…and…check out this site for lots of good DIY stuff.

    http://www.diydoctor.org.uk/home.htm
    References :

  5. norman7774 Says:

    One must be very careful on this.. the cement, of course, must be completely dry.. the wood to be used should be acclimated to the t emperature of the room, etc and above all.. MOISTURE from the floor to the wood must be controlled…… I could write a lot on this subject but rather than do so.. I strongly recommend that you go to this website and STUDY it carefully..

    http://www.primatech.ca/tn/tips2.htm
    References :

  6. Ty Says:

    you really really shouldn’t. you will void the manufactures warranty. If you don’t care then by all means go ahead. use a hardwood glue. they sell this where u bought your hardwood. A friend of mine has done this and so far it looks great, but then he also put in floor heating as well( dries out the wood too quickly), I mentioned to him that this was apoor choice, but he doesn’t care. Too much $$ in is pocket I guess, lol. There is a hardwood for concrete floors its called universal hardwood. its hardwood laminated onto plywood. so the plywood in on the floor and not the hardwood. You can either get this flooring to float like laminate or glue it down directly to the floor. Remember to use the manufactures suggestion for the glue if your going this route. If anything happens to the floor the manufacture can easily say its the glue and your SOL.
    References :
    Flooring Specialist for Home Depot

  7. DidacticRogue Says:

    Laying a wood floor over concrete can be tricky. The biggest potential problem is often the concrete itself.

    Concrete is a good conduit for moisture, and moisture is the sworn enemy of wood flooring. The most important thing is to make sure the concrete is as well sealed as possible. You need some kind of moisture barrier to make sure any moisture from underneath or the sides of the slab does not make it to the underside of your flooring. There are sealers which do a good job of this, but exterior moisture is not the only problem. Concrete is also a poor insulator – meaning that the coolness of the earth beneath it (usually a temperature in the 55 degree F range) is transferred into the living space above. Besides the issue of comfort, this also means that any moisture (humidity) in the conditioned space tends to condense on the cooler concrete, where it will seek out the proximate wood.

    The third consideration is the quality of the concrete floor itself. Wood flooring requires a flat, level surface for a successful installation. Many concrete floors are not poured well enough to provide a true, flat base.

    To sum up, you have three potential issues which should be addressed before beginning your installation: Moisture transfer, condensation due to heat transfer, and the trueness of your slab.

    Dealing with the last issue first, you have a couple of workable options, depending on your situation. You can buy concrete leveler, which is basically quick drying concrete that can be feathered out to a thin edge. You can fill puddles and undulations in the concrete with this stuff to help flatten it out. If you do use leveler, be sure to mix it in small batches and work QUICKLY, as it sets up VERY fast. Another option is to build up the floor with firring strips (set every 12 or 16 inches) that imitate the tops of floor joists. This is a good solution if you have a floor that slopes consistently from one side of the room to the other, as you can rip the firring at a slight angle to compensate for the slope of the concrete slab.

    As to moisture transfer, I’d recommend a sealer, although a well-sealed moisture barrier works too – just make sure you use a tape that’s designed for this purpose, as neither duct tape nor packing tape will hold up well enough over time. House wrap tape is a good solution.

    The last problem you have to overcome is heat transfer (which, again, results in more moisture problems). For this, you need insulation. If you decide to level your floor with firring strips (or just use them so you can have a nailing surface), you can insulate between them with the insulation of your choice. If you want to glue your floor to the concrete, insulation is more problematic, as you’d presumably be gluing your floor to the insulation, which you’d already glued to the concrete underneath. I’m really not sure how you’d do this correctly, but you may be able to come up with something that works for you.

    I’ve put wood flooring down over concrete a couple of times, but in both cases, I chose to use prefinished engineered wood flooring because of the potential hassles of properly preparing and installing solid wood. The rolls of insulated foam underlayment you put down with engineered flooring, when taped properly, act as a moisture barrier. It’s also a free-floating installation, meaning the flooring is not physically attached to the concrete with glue or nails – you can think of it as a large, solid rug – and the installation is literally a snap.

    I also understand and appreciate the aesthetics of "real" wood floors, and prefer them myself … just not over concrete.

    Good luck with your project, and I hope this helps.
    References :
    Personal experience.

  8. Ryan M Says:

    Ignore pretty much what everyone else has said you can’t install hardwood flooring as a floating floor, you need to glue direct to the floor or the much better option is elastilon http://www.elastilon.com/english/index_english.htm

    this website also has fitting instructions
    References :
    I’m a Carpenter/Joiner

  9. oakbridge Says:

    The best way I have found is to lay down a layer of asphalt felt and then screw down some 5/8" plywood. I have done this many times. If the floor is up and down put some ashphalt shingles in the low spots before laying plywood. Use Tapcons to screw the floor down.
    bob
    References :
    That would be us at http://www.expertcarpenter.com

  10. jc1129_us Says:

    As you should have been advised by whoever sold (is selling) you this flooring, solid hardwood flooring can NOT be glued directly to a concrete substrate. It can only be nailed, in which case you would have to install a moisture barrier, THEN 3/4 inch plywood with concrete nails and THEN your hardwood. Result: you just raised your floor 1 1/2 inches.
    The only type of hardwood that can be glued directly to concrete is engineered.
    Do some research before you get into trouble :)
    References :

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