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Tips wanted for laying a real wood floor?

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I am (against my better instincts) going to be attempting to lay a real wood floor. What is the best or easiest way to secure way this – glue, nail, self adhesive underlay? Also, is it necessary to remove the skirting boards? Any other tips are welcome!!!!

For a real wood floor (as opposed to laminate which is easy to fit) I’d get a man in. If you muff it up it’ll look horrid and will be really expensive to fix.
It may seem like a lot of expense but you’ve probably shelled out quite a bit on the flooring, you wouldn’t want to ruin it.

8 Responses to “Tips wanted for laying a real wood floor?”

  1. spook542 Says:

    For a real wood floor (as opposed to laminate which is easy to fit) I’d get a man in. If you muff it up it’ll look horrid and will be really expensive to fix.
    It may seem like a lot of expense but you’ve probably shelled out quite a bit on the flooring, you wouldn’t want to ruin it.
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  2. hawaiis0 Says:

    always remove the skirting board as you get a great finish when you replace new after.

    real wood or parquetry flooring should not be too difficult to lay.

    you must consider your base floor on to which you are laying. it must be as level as possible. use a self levelling compound to smooth over if uneven. just pour over spread and leave to dry. stinks to high heaven but does the job.

    you will need an underlay usually polystyrene or similar to act as a sound proofing material and posibly a damp proof layer too.

    modern flooring is now engineered to lock together so no fixing should be necessary. the weight of the floor will hold it in place.

    you must leave an expansion gap of 1 cm around the edge – hence the shirting note above. wood will expand and contract with the seasons causing raising of the floor.

    rather than use real wood, have a lok at engineered laminates with real wood veneers. the thicker the better as this allows for future sandding if you need to.

    remember to consider your doors as they may need a shaving off the bottom for any thick floors.

    if you do use self locking panels make sure you spend the extra 15 quid for the fitting kit with the correct hammering blocks. most valueable tool.
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  3. splandastic Says:

    I have several tips for laying a really good wood floor.

    Tip 1:

    Get someone else to do it for you. You’ll only go and bodge it up and then you’ll get someone in to fix your mistake and it will cost you more than had you got them to do it in the first place.
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    Seen it happen many times before

  4. Anne K Says:

    I put in my own hardwood floor last year. It was not that hard, and I think I did a great job. As long as you start squaring everything off, and do the prep work, you’ll be fine., Before I started I went on the internet and watched DIY videos, and step by step instructions. I rented a nailer (i used nails), and started.
    -I kept my wood in the house for 1 week prior to installing, to condition it to your home environment
    -I took all the advise online, which way to lay them, made all the appropriate lines to make sure I kept it straight.
    -I put down a tar paper which they recommended at the local hardware store.
    The only thing I didn’t attempt was cutting the pcs. I have a nice neighbor with a woodshop, I marked all my pcs and brought them over and he cut them. (I didn’t own a nice table saw) Hope this helps, good luck!!
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  5. lostinyonkers Says:

    yes you will need to remove the skirting or baseboards, read the instructions of the wood before laying it. some brands require that the home stay a constant temp throughout no matter what the weather or the boards will shrink and separate. some require more room around the edges normally a min. of 1/4" is needed for expansion or the floor will buckle. which if your baseboards aren’t wide enough at the base to cover the gap needed for the floor you will need to buy more base. the gun to mail the floor runs about 300 to 400 dollars plus the hose and air compressor. glue runs 90 to 200 dollars per bucket and depending on the trowel size needed to do the floor that will tell you how much glue you will need. when you glue you will need to lay a few rows let the glue set up a few hours and then proceed or you will end up with a mess because the floor will slide everywhere. i suggest you figure it out boths ways as to which will save you money and which will be easier to do.
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  6. gavin3214 Says:

    yes you need to remove the skirtings, what you use to fasten it down depends on the floor construction (Timber or concrete), personally if you are not confident i wouldn’t attempt it as it expensive if you mess it up.

    Have you looked at the engineered wood floors that are avaiable it is similar to laminate but has a layer of real wood on the top so looks like a solid wood floor, plus its a lot easier to lay as it clicks together like laminate.
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  7. dai Says:

    i worked has a electrician all my life and worked in houses being dun up all the time and over the years seen many new floors spoilt the people would get boards and start laying them day one after a couple of weeks they would dry out and shrink some times 10m gap

    so the tip is get wood and climatise it with air gaps between wood to help dry out and help shrinking give it time
    all the best dai
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  8. quadracer1988 Says:

    #1 depends what you are laying onto, concrete- stik it down with elastation adhesive, timber-secret nail it in the tonuge or you can float, i dont do this anymore as problems can accur were the glue fails. #2 take the skirting of and make sure u leave a good gap, with some skirting thickneses you may need to also run quadrant around aswell to get the cover. #3 we no longer fit pre finished flooring as mainly with the adhesive option one dirty finger print and it nackerd. #4 you get what you pay for, with the useall hombase b&q stuff you get problems with diffrences it plank sizes.
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    in the carpentry game for 6 years

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