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real wood flooring…..help!?

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almost 18 months ago, i had some real wood flooring down in our living room. My husband laid it down, and because he is one of these people that has to get everything dead right, he used all the correct materials and tools. i must add that he also used proper edging material in case of expansion to the wood over time. Everything has been fine up until now. there are a couple of places where the wood has raised. It has not come apart but just raised. it has been like this for around 2 weeks now, and at first we came to the conclusion that it may be linked to the weather that we have been having, and that it would eventually settle down. The flooring is all glued down, so it would not be as simple as just taking certain parts out and re-laying, it means taking up most of the flooring which may even damage the tongue and grove. any ideas please. Thank you in advance.
he did leave a gap around the edges of the wood near the walls, and its not the whole of the flooring that is lifting up,its just in a couple of places.
The glue was only used along the t&g and not to glue the whole floor down.

When you say real wood do you mean tongue and groove 3/4" hardwood?

If that is the case,it should have been nailed down not glued.Also us old timers use a tar paper moisture barrier under this type of installation.

Or are you talking about engineered hardwood,(hardwood veneer over plywood)?

Many of these types are meant to float, not be glued down.
They also need a moisture barrier.

Over the years I’ve put many variations of wood flooring down but never a glue down type.So I’m wondering if it was supposed to be completely glued down at all.

Some laminate or engineered floors do need only the joints to be glued.

Was your new flooring brought into your house environment 24hrs prior to installation? Both wood and tile should be allowed to acclimate to the environment it will be installed in.

When you say raised, do you mean just the t&g edge or do you mean the whole floor?
It could be moisture,It could also be the original floor may have been "wavy" which would lead to an improper bonding surface if it really was supposed to be glued down.

Your problem is either moisture related or improper installation.

6 Responses to “real wood flooring…..help!?”

  1. smash915 Says:

    I know when we had our floors refinished we had asked the guy about filling in the spaces between our floor boards but he said that the wood needs room in between because it could swell so maybe what’s going on is that the wood is swelling because of the weather and with there not being enough space between each piece they are pushing some up.
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  2. tom s Says:

    did you leave a gap around the wall,between floor and wall,wood movers all the time,if it pushing up to the wall it will lift
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  3. SIMON G Says:

    you should leave a gap around all walls and then put a strip over the gap as this hides it . then wood can breath so expand and shrink with out showing the gap . to every one else laying a real wood floor lay it then put you shirting boards on after over the floor so you don’t need an edging strip as skirting board will hide it , this might be your best option for you . to take of skirting and put it back on over floor
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  4. David Says:

    You’re having moisture expansion.

    If it’s due to a flood or spill, there’s not much you could have done to prevent it.

    If it’s due to natural humidity changes, the floor wasn’t laid properly in the first place. Wood expands, and many amateurs don’t leave enough room for expansion.

    If there’s not enough room, the proper way is to raise the floor, relay it, and leave more room at the edges. If you don’t want to bother, or had a flood, you can pull up the damaged pieces and insert new ones, cutting off the tongue of the last piece so that you can tap it in. Then tap in some unobtrusive nails, or rely on the glue alone and pray.
    References :

  5. dmja 43 Says:

    Did he leave a gap at the wall all the way around?Wood flooring is nailed/stapled in place.Get a pin nailer that 1.5 in. pin nails will work in,try to pin nail the corners down.Get a professional floor installer to look at it.
    References :

  6. kclifer Says:

    When you say real wood do you mean tongue and groove 3/4" hardwood?

    If that is the case,it should have been nailed down not glued.Also us old timers use a tar paper moisture barrier under this type of installation.

    Or are you talking about engineered hardwood,(hardwood veneer over plywood)?

    Many of these types are meant to float, not be glued down.
    They also need a moisture barrier.

    Over the years I’ve put many variations of wood flooring down but never a glue down type.So I’m wondering if it was supposed to be completely glued down at all.

    Some laminate or engineered floors do need only the joints to be glued.

    Was your new flooring brought into your house environment 24hrs prior to installation? Both wood and tile should be allowed to acclimate to the environment it will be installed in.

    When you say raised, do you mean just the t&g edge or do you mean the whole floor?
    It could be moisture,It could also be the original floor may have been "wavy" which would lead to an improper bonding surface if it really was supposed to be glued down.

    Your problem is either moisture related or improper installation.
    References :
    Builder/ remodeler 28 yrs.

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