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Cleaning Floors : How to Clean a Polyurethane-Coated Hardwood Floor

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Use a solution of warm water and an oil-based soap to clean a polyurethane-coated hardwood floor. Clean a polyurethane-coated hardwood floor with the housekeeping tips in this free video on home maintenance from a professional decorator and home cleaner.

Expert: Ann Myrick
Bio: Since 1997, Ann Myrick has been a professional decorator, house cleaner, home organizer and planner.
Filmmaker: Tim Brown

Duration : 0:2:34

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Custom Hardwood floors, inlays, medallions, borders and parquet by Czar Floors

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Please visit http://www.czarfloors.com
Gallery of custom wood floors, inlays, medallions, borders and parquet made by Czar Floors. CNC Router produced wood inlays

Duration : 0:10:0

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15 x 189 & 21 x 189 Double Brushed & Dark Oiled Engineered Flooring

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15 x 189 and 21 x 189 Engineered Flooring – Double Brushed & Dark Oiled Finish.
Available from www.OakFloorsOnline.co.uk
Full Specs Available at: www.SeeOurProducts.co.uk/Specs

Duration : 0:1:15

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Refinishing Wood Furniture : Polishing Wood Furniture with Steel Wool

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A hand rubbed finish on hardwood furniture is achieved in part by rubbing the wood with steel wool. Find out how to get this effect in this free video.

Expert: Curt Martin
Bio: Curtis W. Martin is a third-generation antiques restorer.
Filmmaker: Reel Media LLC

Duration : 0:1:52

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Hardwood floor installation

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Our hardwood floors being installed. Time lapse photography over an 8 hour period set to “Powerhouse” by Raymond Scott. Camera was a Nikon 8700 set to a 5 minute interval.

Duration : 0:0:31

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Teakwood in saw mill | Woodworking step

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http://TeakWood-s.com All about teakwood

Duration : 0:1:31

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Refinishing Old Hardwood Floor?

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Hey I’m looking to refinish my room, it is all old old hardwood flooring rough, with 2 inch cracks inbetween the boards in places. What I want to do is smooth in all the cracks, sand it down and then add some clearcoat or something to give it the hardwood floor shine. I am not completely sure on the steps, but my plan is to use a belt sander to smooth everything out as best I can, and then add clearcoat. This would not fix the cracks though, how would you go about accomplishing this? Thanks.

The best thing you could do is to put some 4×8 sheets of sub-floor down, then cover it with some prefinished wood. There is many manufacturers to choose from. You are in for a major disappointment reworking the old floor. Or cover it with carpet.

Installing engineered wood flooring with baseboard radiators?

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I’m looking at installing floating 3/8" or 5/16" engineered wood floors in an 90 year old house that has perimeter hot-water base-board radiators around almost every exterior wall. These are the units aobut 6" high with a flanged radiant core housed in an overhanging metal housing with an adjustable "roof" over the core. The rooms are large and the existing floors are sound and fairly level old 3" wide pine boards (NOT tongue and groove.) Normally you’d pull up the quarter-round and wooden base-board and put 10 mm spacers at the wall (which is what we’ll do at the interior walls with no radiators.) Pulling out and extending the height of all the radiators would be prohibitively costly (that’s why we are not doing 3/4" solid wood). If we just run the boards to just under the edge of the radiators will it be fine? Anyone out there dealt with this situation and how did you handle it?

Baseboard radiators work by convection, meaning they take in air through the bottom, which passes over the heating core and then the warmer, lighter air rises out the top. This creates a circuit of cool air entering at the floor and warm air rising along the wall. Therefore, you need to have the bottom open for the heaters to work correctly. I’m guessing from your description that you would be reducing the size of the opening at the bottom. Any amount you reduce it won’t help, but as long as you still have at least an inch and a half or so, you should be OK.

I would just do it, and if the room seems colder when you’re done, then maybe you might need to raise the heaters. I would think you can do that after the floors are installed without much problem (other than the pesky cost problem).

The metal housing is usually separate and snaps on to the fin-tube and pipe inside. Maybe you can raise the cover (you might have to modify them a bit, cut off the snap on flanges or create new attachment points where they screw into the wall) to maintain the current opening at the bottom without moving the pipes…

Solid wood floor in the bathroom?

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Hi,
I have just bought meranti (type of Mahagony) recycled parquet floor which used to be the flooring in an old school. It is georgeous and I would like to use it in my bathroom too. As I said it is solid wood not engineered.I just wondering can anybody would be able to advice me using it in a bathroom? Which would be the best treatment for it ?

Thanks

Being in the bathroom remodeling and flooring industry for 10 years, you may want to heed my advice on this. Do not use wood as your bathroom floor. Moisture WILL find it’s way to the wood (whether it’s humidity, or a wax ring on the toilet goes, to drippings, etc). No matter how much you "treat" the wood, it won’t keep it from warping, and maybe more importantly, growing mold. Wood is a porous material, and damp wood is a prime home for many nasty types of mold and mildew, some of which are very unhealthy to you and your family. Warping would just affect the cosmetics of your home, mold can risk the health and wellbeing of your entire family. Go with tile, there are even some tile’s made now that imitate wood and look good. Email me if you need further help.

I am getting ready to install a click and lock engineered wood floor, when do I install the stair nose?

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Shoud it be installed first or last? I am installing it on stairs with carpet, how do I secure the top of the carpet under the stair nose?

Each situation is different and each engineered wood too. If your running perpendicular e/ the wood and need to tye into it there are 2 options. You can set the nosing and lock into it. Or put a pc in that you can lock into that. That pc needs to be set back the nosing depth. Then lock nosing into that , or use a spline, which ever you need.If your floor runs parallel to the nosing you can leave it off til the end , just ripping the pc before it to size. Carpet bel usually needs to be trimmed back and turned and tacked up under the nosing Depends how your nosing lays out I always cut off the sub floor over hang to give the nosing as much support as possible. Any questions you can e mail me GL