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what causes a solid wood floor to swell?

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The wood floor fitter says he has never seen a wood floor swell like ours has . It’s only in one place between 3 planks and about 2 feet (60 cms ) in length .The floor was laid October 2005 over a wood floor and was perfect until 3 or 4weeks ago so for one year we had no problem .
We have had a second opinion . He thinks it could be the heavy marble fireplace we had fitted at the same time on top of the floor . He thinks the weight of the fireplace could stop the floor expanding and pushing the planks away from the fireplace . Before they dismantle the fireplace and rip up the floor has anybody any experience of this problem or any other ideas of what may have caused the wood to swell.

you should check that enough of a movement joint was allowed for at the perimeters, and also that the correct moisture content in the timber was used.

If too much moisture is retained in the timber, or too much was taken out priot to installation, that will cause the timber to move.

Wood Floor Restore – The all in one DIY kit to restore your floor

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Wood floor restore is a new innovative all in one kit that enables the homeowner to restore an old wooden floor to its original glory in three easy to follow steps. The kit includes everything needed to bring about a professional result bar the sanding machines thus doing away with the need for flooring professionals saving hundreds of pounds! http://diywoodfloorrestore.co.uk/

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laying solid wood flooring with adhesive?

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u can install hardwood with an adhesive, but i recommend that u use what the manufacture suggest so as not to void the warranty…if u didnt buy it from a company and u got it as raw wood then i would check with installers and ask them what they suggest……

lic. gen. contractor

Another solid wood flooring installation question?

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I will be installing 3/4" x 3" wide Bellawood solid Brazilian Teak flooring over a sublfoor made of 3/4" thick x 3" wide tongue and groove boards in my kitchen. The new flooring will be running in the same direction as the sub-floor and I’m hoping I can nail directly to the sub-floor instead of laying down 1/4" luan first. I’ve heard that the luan can be soft in some spots and isn’t as good of a quality as it use to be. Plus it’ll just add to the height issue going into the next room. If I were to center my first course of the new boards over the seam of my sub-floor boards, would this add to the strength and prevent any dipping? Or would that make a difference at all? My sub-floor feels real sound, it’s smooth and about as even as possible, and I’ve added ring shank nails at the joists to ensure they are down tight. I haven’t bought anything yet and will be making some calls tomorrow to the distributor and hopefully the manufacturer to see what they say. But I wanted to see if anyone else has done this with success.

Thanks
According to the flooring’s specs. it’s 82% harder than oak. Though that might be due more to the finish than the actual wood. And I am running the new flooring in the same direction as the sublfoor boards, perpendicular to the joists. The house was built in ’28 but I think the sub-floor was replaced in the kitchen during a remodel in the 60s or 70s. The old lenoleum floor was glued directly to the sub-floor and there was no sign of any splitting in the flooring before we ripped it up and sanded the sub-floor to remove the old adhesive.
And each of the sub-floor boards run the full length of the 11′ long room. So the only joints I have are length wise, perpendicular to the joists.
Oops…the room is 15′ long….sorry.
Euro
I agree, I don’t have all the clues to what I am doing. But I’ve managed to learn more than enough to get it done as I go. I’ve reframed walls that were hacked up from previous remodels, raised a sagging corner of the house, fabricated and installed new mudsill, new joists, repiped the house in copper, done my own electrical, dwv piping, windows, siding, drywall, including a hand made range hood surround and arched doorways, window casings, replaced my sewer, gas and water main lines…. Maybe that’s too much work? Maybe I should sit on my ass watching movies or playing video games all day and let someone else do things for me?
You really think with the kind of questions I’m asking that I don’t have at least some idea of what to do? The way I see my situation, as I stated, I have a couple different directions to go. I’m just looking for people who have done this and what their results were. And if YOU have some experience then help a guy out and share what you know.

i installed a similar floor in my living room and i did the same as you and got a lot of advise first. you don’t need the luan, just lay a tar paper or red rosin paper on the sub-floor first. i would recommend running the hardwood perpendicular to the sub-floor if possible but you always wanna run perpendicular to the floor joists. you are already nailing through one of nature’s hardest woods, you don’t want to hit a joist. if possible chalk lines where the joists are so you don’t hit them with the nailer as the nail could spin around and ruin the plank. good luck, keep my email if you run into a snag or you need any tips southfloridaslate@yahoo.com

sanding and oiling a wooden pine floor dust free

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aerg

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how long have exotic solid hard wood flooring been on the market ?

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how long have people been useing this in there home

Exotic hardwoods have been around a long time. Since the time they discovered exotic countries.

wood flooring

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nail down wood flooring

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Hard wood flooring widths which is better?

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I have been looking at solid wood flooring and I have noticed some have different widths. Which is better the smaller width or the bigger ?

The one you like is the one that is better.
Advantage of the basic 2 1/4 " wood is that it is massed produced and is generally cheaper in price.
The wider planks up to 5" can be installed under normal conditions, and when installed right won t cup.
6" planks and larger tend to cup over time in higher humidity climates.
Any questions you can e mail me through my avatar. GL

suggestions needed for finishing a pine solid wood floor?

solid wood flooring 4 Comments »

we are finishing a pine solid wood floor and need suggestions on what finish to use eg oil, varnish etc…

If you use oil it will have a slightly rustic look/feel, but as the floor gets marked with scraping sofas you can wipe some oil in to tone it down.

Water’based varnish is not as strong as oil based varnish. The singular advantage with water-based is that it will not darken the floor quite as much as oil-based. If you go the route of water-based then Dulux Diamond or Johnstone floor varnish are the best.

Of the oil-based varnishes, the very best by a country mile is Sadolin PV67. It is a two pack catalytic type varnish. In other words you mix two different bottles together and then you have to work fast. It is touch dry within minutes so DIYers will only be quick enough to use it when you are painting floorboards, so you can paint along three boards at a time, because by the time you get back to the start it your previous varnish will be dry. Use a 4 inch brush, keep it in the varnish when not in use to stop the brush drying out. You can put a couple of coats on a day and using the Sadolin UV sealer first will also stop some of the darkening effect. You may have to go to a proper decorators merchants like Brewers for it. (Very strong fumes when applying, windows open necessary etc. but ok next day)

Matt finish scuffs and grabs the dust too much. Gloss is slippy, highlights defects to much, satin is in my opinion the best finish.

Purley Light Garden Railway

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A movie all about our garden railway. In length 56 yards of track with 1,792 wooden sleepers all cut by hand from an old breadboard and parquet flooring!! It eventully closed due to nature taking over and now long gone, just afew reminders of its exsitance left.

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