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Home Improvement & Remodeling : Advantages of Engineered Hardwood Flooring

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Engineered hardwood flooring can be beneficial in that it can be mass-produced at a relatively inexpensive cost. Find out how engineered hardwood flooring is easy to replenish with help from a professional carpenter in this free video on home improvement and hardwood flooring.

Expert: Stephen G. Anthony
Bio: Stephen G. Anthony is a professional carpenter, woodworker and handyman based in New York City and south Florida.
Filmmaker: Paul Muller

Duration : 0:1:56

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Remodeling — getting wood floors — should I do solid or engineered wood flooring?

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One thing to remember is if you use the sand and finish type wood flooring, you will have to live with the dust and inconvenience of the loss of using the room for several days. I would still recommend the sand and finish flooring if you can deal with the hassle of the dust etc. Now, one thing that others haven’t mentioned is the fact that most engineered flooring comes with a 20-25 year warranty on the finish. Check and see, because if you don’t want to have to bother re-doing your flooring for a long time, you might want to invest in the engineered flooring but to me, it looks "fake". Not really like laminate but I just don’t like the pre-finished OR the engineered floors, but you have to make that call depending on your financial situation as well as the inconvenience you’re willing to experience. Also be sure when you pick out your flooring, if you DO use the engineered or pre-finished, look at the space between the boards……some have a deeper groove which, to me, would catch dirt.
In a sand and finish floor, of course there is no groove, so that is also a plus. (another thing to remember is, if you really want something pretty that will be unusual, do something in the exotic woods instead of the oak that everyone does. While oak is nice, it’s so blase. Almost everyone has oak and while it’s less expensive, if you shop around, you might be able to get a good deal on an exotic hardwood, such as Brazilian Cherry, which is what I have. It is the first thing people notice when they walk in!!!) So, think about that as well and have fun doing this. Good luck to you!!!!!!!

Engineered wood flooring — Durability and attractiveness in a 500+ patients/week in physicians’ office?

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In a physicians office, I would recommend an acrylic impregnated engineered hardwood. It’s commercially rated, and will hold up to more wear and tear. It definitely adds more warmth and friendliness to the area. Hartco makes a good product that I have used in many high traffic areas, as well as Permagrain. I’m assuming that you are considering this for the lobby or some other public area.

The downside is noise. Not knowing how your office is set up, when patients are checking in – with a hard surface on the floor – there is nothing to absorb sound, and it can be easier for other patients to overhear what is being said.

In public areas and reception, I recommend carpet tiles. The advantage is, if there is an "accident", and an area gets stained – you can replace those tiles with new ones.

If you want the wood look in the exam rooms, I would go with a commercial sheet vinyl. That way, you can have a more hygenic surface. I once did a whole sleep lab in wood grain sheet vinyl for that very reason. It looked great. Mannington and Armstrong make a very nice durable product.

If you have any other questions, feel free to drop me an email – medical offices are my speciality.

How Engineered Wood Flooring is Made

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http://builddirect.com presents a short video about how engineered floors are made, from “debarking” lumber to the creation of finished flooring boards.

Duration : 0:1:48

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Is it better to use solid wood or engineered wood for flooring?

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Originally I was told engineered is better. More stable. Less likely to warp. Because it is superior and harder to make it is more expensive.
Today, my contractor said I should use solid wood.
So far I learned that engineered wood contains formaldihide.
Also, that one supplier won’t sell engineered wood.
Would love to know if I was sold a bill of goods early on.
Alternatively, want to make sure I buy the right product.

Truthfully, it depends upon what your subfloor is made of.

If your subfloor is concrete….engineered wood is the way to go. The layers of the wood in an engineered product help the moisture to get out of the floor. That’s why it is a more dimentionally stable floor. And while you may think that you are limited by your color choices….there are MANY manufacturers, and they all have their own color line. IF after you have looked at Anderson, Bruce, Appalichian, Columbia, Shaw, Mohawk, Scandia, Mirage, Tarkett, Mulligan, Forest Accents, Robbins, and Hartco – and still can’t find the color you like….Plankfloor by Owens is an unfinished engineered wood. You can glue it to the slab and have a sand and finish guy stain to whatever color you prefer. Also, if you prefer wider plank say 5-7 inches – an engineered floor will give you far less problem. In a solid floor of that width, there is more surface area to absorb moisture.

As far as pricing – it is not necessarily more than solid…depends on the wood species and width….there is an engineered floor for every budget. In regards to refinishing an engineered floor, with each price point, you can see the difference in the wood layer on top. There are products such as Mirage, Forest Accents, and the Owens floor with the exact same wear layer as a solid wood – and can be sanded 3 times. BUT – the only reason you need to sand a floor back to bare wood is if you a: have major damage or b: want to change the color. With any wood floor, when you start to see surface scratching over time – you can have a finisher come in and "buff and coat" the floor. That is where the top layer of urethane is taken off, and a new one applied. You can have this done as often as you like….you are never getting into the wood.

One of the misconceptions about solid wood is that you have this huge chunk of wood that can be sanded and refinished over and over. NOT TRUE! You only get 3 sandings, because you can’t sand past the tongue and groove. Contractors are often quick to say use solid – because that’s what they know. As far as the floor being sealed by having it sanded and finished…..that will last until the first change in temperature. Wood by it’s nature expands and contracts…that’s what it does…so if you have your floors done in the summer…then throw on the heat in the winter…the boards will shrink, and the seal is broken. So, yes, engineered floors are more dimentionally stable.

If your subfloors are plywood, and you want a narrow board width – go for the solid.

As far as bamboo – it’s a look that’s popular right now – but it is not wood, it’s a woody grass and is fingernail soft.

Laminate is good if you have lots of kids, but nothing looks like wood, except for wood. And if laminate becomes damaged, it is quite a chore to repair, and WHEN you see wear patterns in it…and you will eventually….it cannot be recoated, it must be replaced. I appreciate Consumer Reports said it was the best, I read the article….but people have been living on hardwood floors for hundreds of years, and they are better now than they were then.

If you have any other questions, please feel free to drop me an email.

Vinyl Flooring Primer-DIY

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Install vinyl flooring like a pro with hands-on advice from Karl Champley. This video is part of DIY To the Rescue show hosted by Amy Devers, Karl Champley . SHOW DESCRIPTION :Got a home improvement project that you’ve botched time and time again or one that you started but can’t figure out how to finish? Let DIY to the Rescue show you how to do it right! Just when it seems hopeless, hosts Amy Devers and Karl Champley arrive to help homeowners finish their problem projects! So don’t worry…it’s DIY to the Rescue!

Duration : 0:3:37

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Have you had a favorible experience with engineered wood flooring?

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I have installed it for people, and have found that it seems to be more scratch risistant, and looks as good as the real stuff.

Glueing Engineered wood flooring to Concrete slab?

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Anyone done it? How did it work out and how was the glue (Odor, how long did it linger and how toxic was it)? I appreciate your answers. Thanks.
Yes, on a "floating floor", but installers are telling me that engineered hardwood is able to be glued straight to the slab, vice regular hardwood.

just wondering if anyone has done it.

If its an engineered wood not or the lock( floating system) then yes you can glue it to the slab since its the only way.
If it is a floating floor then you absolutely cannot glue it down..
It not hard work but you will have a sore arm since the glue used is very thick and stiff. The odors and smell is not bad and will dissipate soon after installation.
You cannot glue a true hard wood to a slab so they are right about that.
Any questions you can e mail me through my avatar, I ve done several 1000 s/f of glue direct engineered wood and a few 100,000 s/f of laminate. GL

Jasper Glueless Click Engineered Wood Floors

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http://builddirect.com Co-Founder Rob Banks talks about a new line of engineered wood flooring.

Duration : 0:2:12

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I want to install engineered wood flooring do I install a floating floor or use a staple gun?

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The manufacturer of your engineered product will advise you as to whether it should float or be glued. It is unlikely they will recommend nailing it. My guess is they will tell you to float it. Engineered flooring is an epoxy product that locks together when you install it. Once you have enough down, the product becomes very stable and will not move but several strips by themselves will slide all over the place. We just installed such a product. Follow the directions carefully and you should not have any problem. Make sure the subfloor if sound and flat.