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Floating wood floors. Why do not all engineered wood floors work for floating?

engineered wood flooring 2 Comments »

I’m wanting to put wood floors in and I’ve noticed that not all allow you to float them. Some have to be glued or nailed? They look the same to me. This is going in over concrete. But why don’t all work for floating floors? Whats the diff?

If they are floating floors, they need to lock together. Nail down type flooring is simply tongue and groove, it will come apart if left floating.

Kahrs Hardwood Flooring Review

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http://www.hardwoodinstaller.com. Overview of Kahrs prefinished engineered hardwood flooring products. Included; Traditional Woodloc, Castle and Cottage, Presidents, Herringbone, and the new Spirit Collection(2009)

Duration : 0:3:43

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is plywood floor the same as engineered wood?

engineered wood flooring 4 Comments »

I purchase "wood flooring" as an upgrade in my new home. Just found out that this is "engineered wood" is this the same?

are you talking about hardwood floors.There is real hardwood which is 3/4 inch thick wood boards, usually oak.The engineered hardwood is a thin layer of wood on a layer of plywood or osb.Engineered wood is a good floor but if you paid for real hardwood you should have gotten real hardwood.

Cleaning Floors : How to Clean a Polyurethane-Coated Hardwood Floor

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Use a solution of warm water and an oil-based soap to clean a polyurethane-coated hardwood floor. Clean a polyurethane-coated hardwood floor with the housekeeping tips in this free video on home maintenance from a professional decorator and home cleaner.

Expert: Ann Myrick
Bio: Since 1997, Ann Myrick has been a professional decorator, house cleaner, home organizer and planner.
Filmmaker: Tim Brown

Duration : 0:2:34

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Installing engineered wood flooring with baseboard radiators?

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I’m looking at installing floating 3/8" or 5/16" engineered wood floors in an 90 year old house that has perimeter hot-water base-board radiators around almost every exterior wall. These are the units aobut 6" high with a flanged radiant core housed in an overhanging metal housing with an adjustable "roof" over the core. The rooms are large and the existing floors are sound and fairly level old 3" wide pine boards (NOT tongue and groove.) Normally you’d pull up the quarter-round and wooden base-board and put 10 mm spacers at the wall (which is what we’ll do at the interior walls with no radiators.) Pulling out and extending the height of all the radiators would be prohibitively costly (that’s why we are not doing 3/4" solid wood). If we just run the boards to just under the edge of the radiators will it be fine? Anyone out there dealt with this situation and how did you handle it?

Baseboard radiators work by convection, meaning they take in air through the bottom, which passes over the heating core and then the warmer, lighter air rises out the top. This creates a circuit of cool air entering at the floor and warm air rising along the wall. Therefore, you need to have the bottom open for the heaters to work correctly. I’m guessing from your description that you would be reducing the size of the opening at the bottom. Any amount you reduce it won’t help, but as long as you still have at least an inch and a half or so, you should be OK.

I would just do it, and if the room seems colder when you’re done, then maybe you might need to raise the heaters. I would think you can do that after the floors are installed without much problem (other than the pesky cost problem).

The metal housing is usually separate and snaps on to the fin-tube and pipe inside. Maybe you can raise the cover (you might have to modify them a bit, cut off the snap on flanges or create new attachment points where they screw into the wall) to maintain the current opening at the bottom without moving the pipes…

Is there a combination vapor barrier and wood flooring adhesive?

engineered wood flooring 1 Comment »

I’m laying an engineered wood floor on concrete on grade. It’s recommended (although not required in my situation) to lay a vapor barrier before installation. Is there a product that combines this IN the wood flooring adhesive?

I ve never seen any and I ve layed a lot of that type flooring. If your using a urethane glue ( recommended) I ve always considered that my vapor barrier, since no moisture will penetrate the urethane. And a tip… Cement must by very clean and dust free to glue wood down.. Any flooring questions you can e mail me thru my avatar GL

How to fix your Wood Floors

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patrickdaiglefloorshttp://gdata.youtube.com/feeds/api/users/patrickdaiglefloorsPeoplepatrick daigle flooring, fix wood floors, fix a scratch, repair wood floors, wood floors, Hardwood floor repairsHow to fix your Wood Floors

Duration : 0:3:13

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Which is "better", engineered hardwood or laminate wood flooring?

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I am looking for a good quality wood floor that, if its not real wood, it atleast looks like real hardwood. Like all home owners, I would like a flooring that looks great, is durable, easy to clean, and doesn’t sound like your walking on plastic when wearing heels. Also important to note; 1) I own a large Husky 2) my home is on a concrete slab 3) I would like to maximize resale of my home. All or any advice is appreciated…. especially if you know of particular brands of good quality. Thank you!

Use engineered harwoord, definitely. Laminate wood has a very cheap look, it may be durable but it is not usually appealing to potential buyers. Real but engineered wood is a bit more expensive, but has many advantages to it. God quality wood s just as durable. If it wears out, it ca be scouted and repolished. Most importantly, it definitely looks (and sounds!) much better, as it doesn’t have this plastic glow of laminated wood.

LP Engineered Wood in the Colleyville ECO House

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LP Building Products “I beams” are installed in the Colleyville ECO House.

http://www.colleyvilleecohouse.com/index.html

Watch in this video higher quality here:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QYvkxmztX-g&fmt=6

Duration : 0:2:27

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Have you ever used Engineered Wood floors in your basement?

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We are about to finish the floors in our basement and the guy at home depot suggested engineered wood floors instead of pergo type floors. They r real wood, do you know if this is a good product, and any negative things about it. Also the guy said it could be refinished, but it looked too thin for that to me.

Engineered woods are perfect for basement areas, as the other poster explained….the layers of the wood help the moisture to get out of the wood, making it a more dimentionally stable product. As far as refinishing an engineered wood – there are certain products that can be refinished 3 times, but you aren’t going to find those at Home Depot.

HOWEVER – when you start to see surface scratches and traffic patterns, a sand and finisher can come in and "buff and coat" the floor. This is where the top layer of urethane is removed and another coat applied. You can do this every year if you like, because you aren’t sanding into the wood layer. The only time you need to sand a floor back to bare wood(like in refinishing) is if you want to change the color, or have some serious damage…..if you have that much damage with an engineered floor, you can always replace the damaged boards.

If you go with a laminate floor(Pergo), when you start to see surface scratches, and traffic patterns – which will occur….there is nothing that you can do to refresh the floors and get the scratches out because they’re basically plastic.