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Can an engineered hard wood floor be sanded?

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what are the tolerances for the veneer finish on an engineered hardwood floor compared to the number of times it can be sanded. basically i need a list of thickness of veneers (or wear layer) and how many times that can be sanded.

depends on the thickenss of the veneer and hwo much you plan to sand off…..might be better to recoat instead

Engineered vs Solid Hardwood Flooring

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Certified inspector teaches differences and requirements for Engineered and Solid Hardwood Flooring in interview with WoodFloorGuru.

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Can an gash in an engineered wood floor be repaired without replacing the floor?

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I have a new engineered floating wood floor. A brass lamp fell and left a quarter to half inch deep gash in the floor. Is there a way to repair it without replacing the foor? The wood is oak.

I would check with the manufacturer. You could use wood filler to match, but I think there is probably a product or system better suited directly from the manufacturer. Or, just call it character! lol.

How do you handle seam and board separation on glued down engineered wood on concrete floor?

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installed engineered hardwood floor (930 square feet) directly on concrete slab – glued down. I have notice some separation at the seams. What can I do to correct this?

Unfortunately, your glue has not adhered to the concrete properly, so the only thing you can do is to remove and start over…sorry !~

Mirage Lock Hardwood Flooring

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Locking, glueless engineered prefinished hardwood floors of superior quality.
http://www.miragelock.com

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Engineered Hardwood Floor

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www.extremehowto.com

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What should I expect to pay per m2 for someone to lay engineered wood floor?

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Costs to include all fitting, glue, underlay, labour etc – size is about 60m2 where roughly half is on concrete and roughly half is on old parquetry. Location near heathrow, if that makes a difference. Tongue and groove engineered oak floor bought separately.

£10 per sqm + £10 per door way, i.e 60 sqm + 4 doorways = £640.
For any home up to 3 storeys and assuming you have somewhere for us to park

As for the underlay I’d suggest either timbermate excel – £2.80 sqm or 6mm Fibreboard with a 3 ply breather membrane £3.70 sqm

How do you fix an engineered wood floor when the adhesive is coming up in spots?

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My husband and I installed an engineered wood floor in our basement a year ago – about 1100 sq. ft. Within a month we noticed 3 spots that "give" or make a sticking sound when you walk over them. Obviously, the adhesive didn’t take or it was partially dried when we laid that portion of the floor (hey, that’s what no experience gets you ; )

Water and humidity are not a problem in this basement, concrete sub-floor has cured for 15 years prior to installation and it is level.

One suggestion was to drill a small hole and use a hypodermic type needle to inject more adhesive under the floor and then weigh the spot down for it to adhere.

Any other suggestions that don’t include ripping the floor up? Or any suggestions on where to buy the hypo-glue tool?

You can go to an animal feed store and buy a horse syringe, use a thin adhesive and drill a 1/16" hole. That’s about the only way. My laminate repair kit costs $475, so it’s not worth it for the consumer to purchase for a one time repair. all it consists of really is a large horse syringe

Used 3m pad on engineered wood floor, what do I use and how do I spot repair the finish?

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Scandian engineered wood. 3M green pad used to clean small areas in floor. Have about 20 places which now look dull from an angle. Need to fill in these small places for a uniform look.

Anything you attempt to do will only make matters worse, and they will stand out more. Even a professional floor refinisher would be hard pressed to make a perfect, undetectable repair on 20 small areas. It would probably be easier (and the results more uniform) to buff and coat the entire floor.

If they bother you that much, I would suggest calling a professional hardwood floor refinishing company to come out and look at your floor and present you with some options.^

Installing Engineered Wood Floor – what to use to fill voids in subfloor before installation?

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I’m installing an engineered wood floor in a second floor bedroom. Currently has a plywood subfloor in fairly decent shape. However there are some voids and gaps in the subfloor. What product should be used to fill these areas? Would ceramic tile adhesive work? Do the gaps between plywood sheets (maybe 1/8" gap) need to be taped and filled?

Thanks?

Do NOT fill the gaps between the sheets of plywood! These need to be there to allow for wood expansion. In fact, if you don’t have those gaps, run a circular saw, set at 3/4", down all the joints to open them up. With out this gap, if the plywood swells, it will buckle up at the joints.

Voids in the subfloor like knot holes in the top ply aren’t an issue. But dips and high spots are an issue. Make sure all the nail heads are flush (and add deck screws if there are any loose spots).

Your flooring instructions should list the maximum dip/rise in a given run. If you’ve got low spots (cr@py carpenter didn’t crown all the joists), you can cut pieces of roofing felt to fill in the void. If it takes several layers, "feather" them with progressively larger pieces, just like you’d feather a drywall joint. High spots can be taken down with a grinder or belt sander with 40 grit paper

If you’ve got a floor with a lot of dips and rises, you can use a self leveling cement to bring it level. It’s very thin, like a runny milkshake, and you spread a thin layer with a large floor squeegee. It’s thin enough that it finds it’s own level, puddling in the low spots. This is typically only needed for tile, but you could do it for wood/laminate.over a really bad subfloor